Red Dresses and Warm Fall Days

“Son, in this life, you never pass up an opportunity to talk to a woman in a red dress.” - Buck O'Neil

Buck O'Neil was the legendary KC Monarchs player/manager who willed the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum into existence.  He once said the best day of his life was one he hit for the cycle and met his wife, who was supposedly wearing a red dress.  This story and the woman in a red dress is referenced many times in Joe Posnanski's excellent book about Buck O'Neil.  She is both real and a metaphor - a reminder to never pass up an opportunity in life.  

If I had to name my woman in a red dress, other than my beautiful wife Nicole, it would be taking a convertible for a drive on a warm fall day.  I've owned two convertibles in my life, and just bought my third.    

(Photo: Bring a Trailer)

My first convertible was a 1973 VW Thing purchased on a warm fall day in November.  I was 19.  Terrible at doing car things, it made a good back road companion.  The air cooled 4 cylinder engine sounded like a sewing machine and chugged along happily at about 45-50 mph.  Slow, drafty and cold, the Thing did not endear itself to anyone I dated.  

(Photo: American Cars for Sale)

The second convertible was a 1991 LeBaron I owned when I was 23.  The beefed up K-car platform was overmatched by the Mitsubishi 3.0 V-6.  Compared to its contemporaries, the Fox body Mustang and Mercury Capri, it was heavy with ponderous handling.  But it made up for those drawbacks with a comfortable, quiet ride.  It was nothing to hop in the LeBaron with 2-3 friends and drive two hours for a ball game or grab a pizza.  

And now I have a third convertible, a 2000 Mercedes Benz CLK 430.  Like the LeBaron, the Mercedes has a comfortable, quiet ride and is easy to drive long distances.  Unlike the LeBaron, the 4.3 liter V-8 is well matched to the chassis and is a genuinely fast grand touring car. I've spent the past week driving it with the top down.  And while winter is coming, you can be sure that I'll have the top down any chance I get.  

     

The Mustang Chronicles: Carburetion

 For decades, carburetors were the primary devices for mixing fuel and air at a ratio to maximize combustion in gasoline powered engines.  These devices are simple in theory - they used the flow of air to regulate the metering of fuel, creating an ignitable vapor to generate power.  Over time, they became more complex to provide increased power and meet ever increasing emissions regulations.  With those changes, they gained a reputation of being clunky, inefficient, and unreliable.  This reputation is undeserved in most cases.  Carburetors have been used on everything from lawnmowers to large aircraft and are still used for many applications today. 

(Carter YFA one barrel carburetor)

The 1965 to 1967 six cylinder Mustangs originally came with the Autolite 1100 carburetor, as did most Fords with the Thriftpower six.  The Autolite 1100 is a one barrel carburetor developed by Ford as a replacement for the Holley 1904 and 1940.  It included an automatic, hot air choke and a spark control valve to manage ignition timing.  A common upgrade for these engines is to swap out the one barrel carburetors with two barrel units, and replace the Load-O-Matic distributor with a Duraspark or DUI/HEI.  This conversion can be done using an adapter for the Thriftpower's Log Head intake manifold, or by modifying the intake to accept a two barrel carburetor.  

Switching to a two barrel carburetor provides more horsepower by increasing the volume of fuel/air, which is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM).  Increased CFM volume equates to more power through larger displacement, either due to the size of the engine, or by increasing the engine's speed, measured in revolutions per minute (RPM).  

But there is more to the math than just increasing CFM volume.  You also have to consider volumetric efficiency (VE), which is defined as the ratio of the mass density of the air-fuel mixture drawn into the cylinder at atmospheric pressure, to the mass density of the same volume of air in the intake manifold.  Or in plain English, you can't shove more gas into an engine than it can expel as exhaust.  That's why bolting a Holley 750 Double Pumper on the Thriftpower six is the automotive equivalent of the Milk Gallon Challenge.  

I'm more worried about drivability than power.  I want better street performance from a torquey engine with good throttle response.  The engine is basically stock, with the original camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, and exhaust, so I'm not going to get much benefit from a two barrel carburetor conversion.  

A better choice is to replace the Autolite 1100 with another one barrel carburetor and upgrade to the Duraspark or DUI/HEI distributor.  Ironically, many people swap out the Autolite 1100 for a Holley 1904, 1940 or "universal" one barrel carburetor.  Or, you can go with a Carter YF or YFA, like I did.  

I went with the Carter YFA for reliability and compatibility with my stock setup.  The YFA was used on a variety of Ford cars and trucks from the 1970s into the 1980s and bolts on with no modifications to the fuel line or throttle linkage.  It also provides the improvements in performance I'm looking for.  At some point in the future, I'll probably do a complete tear down on my engine, upgrade the camshaft, exhaust, and go to a two barrel carburetor.  But for now, I'm more interested in driving my Mustang than rebuilding it.          

A Time to Sell

I'm selling my daily driver...

In the past year I've driven my Ford Fusion about 3,000 miles.  Since the start of the pandemic, it's been driven less than 5,000 miles - More than half of those miles were put on by my daughter, before she got her own car.  Now I've reached the conclusion it's time to sell.  

I still like the Fusion, which I bought new in 2013.  Over 78k miles, it's been almost flawless as a daily driver, requiring regular maintenance and one minor repair to replace a fuel pressure sensor.  It's averaged about 26 MPG - lower than the EPA combined estimated, but not far off the mark.  Manufactures have been gaming the EPA test for years with smaller displacement turbo charged engines, and Ford is no different.  The 1.6 turbo 4 cylinder makes 188 horsepower and about an equal amount of torque.  It's a good engine, but buzzy and lazy when paired with the 6 speed automatic.  

My other complaints are minor.  The electric steering is numb, lacking any road feel, and it's light, like using a Logitech racing wheel.  I also don't like the 18 inch wheels with low profile, 45 series tires - they aren't well suited for pothole and metal plate strewn Midwestern roads.  

Complaints aside, it's the best car I've ever owned for transportation.  It has the best ride - a good mix of comfort for long stretches of interstate highways coupled with enough backroad competence to justify taking the Blue Highways.  And the way the car looks...

Ford obviously cribbed off Aston Martin before they sold it off, and they got away with it.  It's hard to overstate the reaction people had to the second gen Fusion.  It caused a stir like the girl in the red dress in the "distracted boyfriend" meme.  It still looks good today, to my eyes, much better than the bland restyling in 2017. 

I never regretted buying the car, and if I still needed a daily driver, something to commute 30+ miles a day, I'd keep it.  But my commute is now a short walk from my bedroom to my desk.  My occasional Starbuck's detour has become a trip to the coffee maker.  And the Fusion spends its days parked under a tree, sprinkled with tree sap and bird shit.  A layer of dirt formed under the rear spoiler, and the other day I found acorns in the air box, left by mice or even a squirrel.  I just finished the engine work on my Mustang, and with access to several other cars, the music has stopped and the Fusion is without a chair.      

One of the many weird things to come out of the pandemic is the sudden jump in used car prices.  A global computer chip shortage and supply chain issues have left auto manufacturers with a shortage of new cars, at a time when demand for cars has spiked.  I've gotten countless emails and junk mail from dealers offering top dollar for my car.  This week I made the mistake of looking up the value and was shocked at how high it was.  Yesterday I dropped by the dealer, and the used car manager offered more than the book value.  

Tonight I'm going back to the dealer with my payoff note and the extra set of keys.  I expect to walk out with a nice check and fond memories.  

Dad's Rules for Driving

 I have two teenagers who are driving.  My son is 19 and goes pretty much anywhere he wants.  My daughter is not quite 16, but has her restricted license and drives herself to school.   

I came up with four rules to follow.  I wanted the rules to be simple, easy to remember, and applicable to most situations:    

1. Drive like I'm in the car.  

2. Be aware of everything around you.  Don't assume the other car/pedestrian/cyclist sees you or is paying attention.  

3. No passengers.    

4. If you ever feel unsafe to drive, for whatever the reason, call me and I'll come pick you up. 

Log Head Arithmetic

 The Ford 144/170/200 inline 6 is a simple, durable engine that is easy to work on.  It is a "cam in block" design, meaning the camshaft is inside the engine block, and the valves are actuated by pushrods.  From 1960 until 1983, it was the workhorse used in the majority of Ford's small and intermediate cars.  

The one shortcoming of the engine is the cylinder head - the intake manifold and cylinder head were cast as one piece for simplicity and to save on production costs.  Known as the Log Head, because the intake manifold looks like a small log with branches feeding the cylinders, it is a restrictive design and provides an uneven flow of the fuel/air mixture.  Early engines, made from 1960 to 1967, had the small log head.  Beginning in 1968, Ford changed the design of the cylinder head and increased the intake volume, which provided slightly better performance.  These engines were produced up until 1983, in cars like the Maverick/Comet, Granada/Monarch, Fairmont/Futura, and Mustang, and are referred to as large log heads.        

(The small log head from my 1965 Ford Mustang - the log is behind the valvetrain with pushrods)

The best way to increase performance on a pre-1968 six cylinder is to swap out the small log head for a large one.  From there, you can add a dual outlet exhaust header, Duraspark or DUI/HEI distributor, and a bigger carburetor.  You can also buy a 2 barrel carburetor adaptor or modify the intake manifold to accept a larger carburetor.  

(Large log head on the same engine - this head was cast in 1973)

Swapping out the cylinder head is straightforward, but not something to take on if you're a novice mechanic.  The Ford Six Performance Handbook provides detailed instructions on the steps involved, expert tips, and things to watch out for.  In addition to the advice in the book, here are some additional things to I learned:  

• Cylinder heads are all interchangeable for all years and displacements, but you will want to factor in combustion chamber sizes and compression ratios so you don't end up with too much or too little compression.    
• The cylinder head itself weighs about 65 pounds.  You will need help lifting the old one and installing the new one.  
• Ford changed the sensor for the temperature gauge in late 1965, so you will need a new temperature gauge if your original cylinder head dates before August of that year.  
• The carburetor spacer for the small log does not fit the large log - the bolt holes are about 1/2 inch further apart.  Additionally, the bore for the intake is about a 1/4 inch larger in diameter. This difference, in addition to the wrong carburetor gasket, will cause vacuum issues, leading to stumbling and hesitation.  
• If you go with a different carburetor, you may have to modify the linkage for the accelerator pedal.  The only carburetors I know that don't require this modification are the Carter YFA, Holley 1904/1940 and the Daytona or Universal carburetor. This modification is not difficult but you will need to purchase the V8 accelerator pedal and linkage.
• If you use a Duraspark or DUI/HEI distributor, you will need a larger gap for your spark plugs - from 32-35 to .45 or more.    

Done right, these modifications can increase power by 30% while costing less than $1,200.  The result is usable, every day performance that approaches the base V8 models of that era, making the car more lively and enjoyable while still maintaining a vintage feel.    

The Original Maverick was a "Hand-me-down"

 I hated the original Maverick... but was wrong to do so.  

Growing up in the 80's, the Maverick was a hand-me-down car.  It was as fashionable as a pair of hand-me-down Toughskin bell-bottoms from your older brother.  Cool cars of that era included coupes from the 60's, 80's Japanese imports, Firebirds, or two-door Cutlass Supremes.  Mavericks were the tragically unhip, back of the lot specials, and the kids that drove them would hide out until everyone else left school.  

The Ford Maverick replaced the Falcon in 1970.  It had the Falcon's hand-me-down platform, which dated back to 1960.  Engine choices were also handed down from the Falcon, including the 170/200/250 Thriftpower 6 and the 302 Windsor V8.  But the Maverick sold well and compared favorably to its contemporaries in the compact/import category.  It also wasn't a bad looking car either.  Early examples of the coupe had clean lines with classic long hood/short deck proportions.  I think the car even looks a little bit like a Ferrari 250 Lusso, which may have been intentional on Henry Ford IIs part, since he looked for every opportunity to stick it to il Commendatore. 

Viewed without malice or my 80's teenage New Wave and synth pop/post-modern cynicism, I've realized the original Maverick was a good car for its time.  A cheap, practical appliance that met the 1973 Oil Crisis, and ever changing pollution and safety regulations.  This year Ford is launching a new Maverick, and while the new one is a truck that offers a hybrid drivetrain, it is also a car for it's time.      

Regardless of what form vehicles take in the future, whether they are cars, trucks, or crossovers powered by hydrocarbons, hydrogen, electricity, or nuclear fusion, we will still need cheap cars.  Vehicles that are reliable, practical appliances, ones that eventually become hand-me-downs, even tragically unhip ones, sitting in the back of high school parking lots.

$15,000 Question: The Corvette C3

Built between 1968 and 1982, the third generation of America's sports car suffers from a reputation of being a plaything for middle-aged guys who dress in Hawaiian shirts and have hair like Ern McCracken.  It is the most bombastic of all the Corvettes.  Where the 1963 to 1967 Sting Ray conjures up images of the early Space Age, and the 1984 to 1996 C4 packed some legitimate performance cred, the C3 comes off like a lo-fi disco parody.   Google "Corvette Summer" if you're not sure what I mean.  That movie makes the Smokey and the Bandit sequels look like The Godfather in comparison.

The C3 Corvette was built on top of a modified C2 chassis.  Starting in 1971, it was steadily gelded until it reached its nadir in 1980 with a 305 cubic inch V8 and an 85 MPH speedometer.  At 182 inches in length, and weighing a hefty 3,500 lbs, it cuts the same swath as a midsize car.

Still, there's something about the C3.  It looks good, all curvy and low slung in a way that stood out against the Brutalist styling of that era.  It was also more comfortable, more practical, and better performing than the Ferrari 308 or Lotus Esprit.  Even as late as 1979, the L-82 Corvette's 0-60 times were in the mid 6-second range.  The small block Chevy 350 offered bullet proof reliability and plenty of torque.  It's also easy to find parts, and there are no shortage of performance upgrades.

I've driven several C3s and can attest to all of the vices.  They are crude and ride like every chassis bolt needs to be tightened a full turn.  The car was victimized by cost cutting and primitive emissions controls.  It is very much a car of the Malaise era, Prog-Rock on four wheels.  

However, like Prog-Rock, there is a lot of good things about the C3.  You sit low in the bucket seats, peering down the valley of the hood, between the sharply creased fenders.  The dashboard slants away from you with two large gauges for the tach and speedometer in front of you, and five smaller gauges in the center console.  The exhaust burbles somewhere behind you, a throaty sound that modern cars can't imitate.  If you're lucky enough to row your own gears, the four speed manual is smooth and positive and the engine provides enough torque to lope around town in third or fourth gear without lugging. 

If you're looking for the sprite-ness of a British sports car, or the precision of a Porsche Boxster, you'll be disappointed.  It's more of a grand-tourer than Gran Turismo Omologato, a car you can use to commute or travel long distances.  If the C2 competed with the Jaguar E-Type, the C3 is a Chevrolet XJ-S, only more rough around the edges and better to drive.  

Mustang Chronicles: Gathering Parts

My simple job to replace a thermostat on my 1965 Mustang turned into this: 

(Ford 200 I6 engine block with new gasket before cylinder head install)

I broke a bolt off in the original cylinder head housing and had to drill it out.  My amateurish attempts to rethread the hole with an old tap and die set proved fruitless, leaving me stuck somewhere between my propensity to optimistically dive headlong into a project, and the limits of my skills.  So it seemed like a good idea to double down on optimism and take the opportunity to do some engine upgrades.   

The biggest shortcoming of the early six-cylinder Mustangs is the design of the intake manifold, which is cast as part of the cylinder head.  Ford decided they could save real money that way, but it results in an engine that breathes like a hamster with emphysema.  In 1968 Ford enlarged and improved the intake manifold and added larger valves in 1977.  The intake manifold looks a bit like a log, so pre-1968 heads are known as "small logs" and the 1968 and newer ones are "large logs".  Production of the engine spanned from 1960 to 1983 and it was used in just about all of Fords smaller/economy vehicles. 

(Remanufactured "large log" cylinder head from a 1973 Maverick)

The Ford 144/170/200 inline 6 will never be in the same league as the Toyota 2JZ or BMW N54 for performance tuning.  In various guises it makes between 90-120 gross horsepower.  But it's a stout engine, and it's possible to increase power output by 30-50% fairly easily and cheaply.  

In my case, it was cheaper to buy a large log cylinder head than have my old one rebuilt.  From there, I decided to also upgrade the carburetor and distributor with the goal of making 20-30 more horsepower.  Here are the details for my build:

• Remanufactured 69-79 Ford 3.3L 200ci L6 w/ 1 3/4" Carb Throat C9/D3/D5/D7 Cylinder Head from Allied Motor Parts. This head came from a 1973 Ford Maverick, but has the larger intake valves.  All Allied does is cylinder heads and they ship nationwide.    

• New Carter YFA 1 barrel carburetor from Mike's Carburetor Parts.  Mike's specializes in carburetors and has a lot of great technical and troubleshooting articles.  They do quality work and are made in the USA.  There are lots of options for carburetor upgrades on the Ford inline sixes, including two barrels using an adapter or modified cylinder head.  This article on Classic Inlines provides a wealth of options and information.  I chose the Carter YFA for the following reasons:

• I wanted something that would work with a "stock" engine, provide good low end torque and drivability on the street, and be reliable and easy to maintain.    

• I am not ready to modify the intake for a two barrel, or do a performance build on my engine.  I also didn't think a two barrel adaptor would provide better performance than the Carter 1 barrel, and I'd lose some of the drivability. 

• The Carter YFA was the standard carburetor for 1969 and 1970 inline 6 engines and a good match for the larger log head.  It was also standard on Ford's 240 and 300 cubic inch truck engines until Ford switched to fuel injection in the 1980s.     

• New Performance HEI Distributor - Besides the large log head, the biggest performance upgrade is to replace the Load-o-Matic distributor with a Duraspark or DUI distributor.  This HEI distributor got good reviews and was 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of either the Duraspark or DUI.  NOTE: You will need to replace the Load-o-Matic distributor if you swap out the Autolite 1100 carburetor because the LoM does not have a mechanical advance.  This article on Load-o-Matics from Classic Inlines will tell you everything you ever wanted to know.  .     

• New ARP Cylinder Head Studs from Vintage Inlines - these are overkill, and are 10 times stronger than the stock head bolts.  But after breaking bolts on several other parts of the engine, I felt the cost was good insurance, especially if I decide to tear down the engine again someday. 

I also bought the Ford Inline Six Performance Handbook.  This book is required reading if you want to rebuild and modify Ford inline six engines.  There is also a wealth of great information and knowledgeable people on the FordSix community website, who also maintain the links to the Classic Inlines tech info pages.  Finally, if you plan to work on one of these engines, please patronize Vintage Inlines, who are the go-to source for all things Ford inline 6.

Over the next few weeks, I plan to write about installing the cylinder head, setting up the carburetor and distributor, and any other tasks needed to get my Mustang back on the road.  

Mustang Chronicles: The Slippery Slope of Car Repair

 

What started as a 15 minute repair has turned into a downward spiral.  The Mustang started overheating, so I went to my local auto parts store and bought a new thermostat, temperature sensor, and coolant flush kit for about $30.  I about had it all back together, but snapped one of the new bolts, as I was tightening it with a torque wrench.  The bolt broke almost flush with the cylinder head, making it impossible to remove with vice grips.  

Broken bolts are a fact of life when working on an old car, and the early Mustangs seem especially prone to breaking bolts on the thermostat housing and exhaust manifold.  I ended up removing the radiator and drilling out the broken bolt, thinking I could clean out the threads in the cylinder head with a tap and die set.  

Unfortunately, I could not clean out the threads, or may have stripped them.  In any case, I knew I had more broken bolts ahead of me, because I was planning on replacing the cracked exhaust manifold, which also bolts on to the cylinder head.  My plan was now to removed the exhaust manifold and then send the cylinder head out to be reconditioned.  

That put me on the slippery slope of car repair, the one where you start with the intentions of doing a small repair job, only to slide down into the abyss of a full on rebuild.  I found a good engine shop, which quoted me about $400 to redo the cylinder head.  This would mean the Mustang would have the top half of the engine rebuilt, while leaving the pistons, bearings, camshaft, and crank untouched and original to a 56 year old car.  Should I do a full engine rebuild while I'm at it?  Do I leave the engine stock, or make some modifications to improve performance?  In addition to the engine itself, should I upgrade the carburetor and ignition?  How far do I want to go?  

Sometimes deciding what to do can be harder than actually doing it.  

 

Yeah, It’s Got a Six

“Hey, is that a ‘65 Mustang?  What-cha got under the hood?”

Those are the most common questions I get when I’m out in my Mustang. Most people don’t care when I tell them the car has a six cylinder engine, but a good number of people seem disappointed.  

Known as the Thriftpower or Falcon 6, the engine displaces 200 cubic inches (or 3.3 liters) and produces 120 horsepower and 200 lb. feet of torque. It offers acceptable performance with good drivability - so much so that the engine was used into the 1980s and powered in a variety of Fox body vehicles, including the early 3rd generation Mustang.

For people looking for more power there are a number of options including swapping out the one barrel Autolite 1100 carburetor for any variety of two barrel options or fuel injection.  Additionally, there are a range of exhaust headers, electronic ignition, cams and cylinder head modifications. Choices range from mild improvements for daily driveability, all the way to wild options like an Offy tri-carb setup and turbocharging.  

Early on, the six cylinder Mustang got an undeserved reputation as a “secretary’s” car.  But a Mustang with a six cylinder and manual transmission compares very favorably to many European cars of the same era.  Look at the performance specs for the Austin Healy 3000, Porsche 356C, or similar 2 + 2 coupes - the Mustang is either within striking distance, or puts up better numbers.

Best of all, a first generation, six cylinder Mustang has balance.  It is a throwback that provides equal doses of fun and practicality.  You can drive it daily and it is rewarding to drive across town on errands or cross country. You can work on it with a basic set of tools and a general understanding of auto mechanics. It can be your weekend car, or your only car.  It is approachable, doesn’t ask for much, but in return gives a purely analog driving experience.  

There are faster cars.  There are better cars, with more of everything.  But there are few cars that convey the joy of unbridled youth, of turning 16 and getting your license, and hitting the road on a spring day, with the windows down and the radio on.     

The Crazy Price of Collector Cars

Collector car prices have gotten way out of hand.  I realize this is nothing new - people have been speculating in the collector car market for years, but seeing some of the mundane iron roll across the auction block for prices in the high five / low six figures leaves me scratching my head.  Here are some examples of what I mean:

• E30 BMWs routinely go for $50,000, M3s for double that amount

• Ford Trucks have sold for as much as $97,500

• Japanese cars from the 1990s sell for over $100,000

All of these cars are pristine, low mileage, or limited run cars.  People collect other objects like art, wine, or antiques, so cars shouldn’t be any different. It’s nobody’s business what you buy.  Nothing wrong with collecting something as a hobby or because you have an interest in it.  

What gets me is the rampant speculation.  There is no measure of value.  Some of these cars trade hands regularly, and double their value every few years. It’s almost like the price paid is a bragging right or a way to keep score with your money.  That’s fine if you have the means, but it bothers me for two reasons:  

First, skyrocketing prices put these cars out of reach for most people.  If you’re not independently wealthy, the only way to buy something is by spending an inheritance, taking out a loan, or robbing your kid’s college fund.  It seems the most common collector car buyer is someone who is newly retired and who has either downsized to a smaller house, or has extra retirement money.  Go to any auto auction and you’ll see the early dinner crowd buying up the cars of their youth, gladly paying beachfront property money for the Hemi powered Plymouth they wanted in high school.  

Second, the prices make it hard to drive these cars on the street.  No one wants to risk putting a dent in their original Plymouth Barracuda or scratch the paint on their Chevelle 396 “tribute car” that they just bought for $80,000.  You’ll never see a pro-street anything on the street, let alone the parking lot at a local store.  These cars arrive in an enclosed trailer, under the dark of night, with more secrecy than the Stealth bomber. 

As a kid, a neighbor had a black 1957 Chevy Bel Air parked in their garage. A friend’s mom daily drove a mint green 1969 Pontiac GTO.  The local import garage usually had a Jaguar E-type or XJ-S in for service.  And one of my dad’s partners had a Lotus Europa.  These cars left their imprint on me and are a big part of why I’m into cars today.  

There have been stories over the past few years about how the younger generations are no longer interested in cars as anything other than a mode of transport.  If there is a problem, I think it’s more due to a lack of exposure, or a lack of money, than waning interest.    

The Mustang Chronicles: Part 1 - Coming Home

 

I've been looking for a project car on and off for the past two years.  Something I could work on with my son and enjoy.  There were plenty of options within a few hours of my house, but the challenge was finding a good candidate in my price range, and at my skill level.  

I don't have easy access to a good tow rig, and while I can tackle a lot of things, I didn't want a project sitting in boxes, or advertised as "ran when parked... 30 years ago."  I also didn't want something rare, that's hard to find parts for, or that I would be scared of driving because of its value. I wanted a driver. Something I could daily if I wanted, or point down a two lane road for a long weekend.    

Space is limited to one half of a suburban two car garage.  Years ago, I learned a valuable lesson after disassembling the front end of a 924 Porsche in a single car garage - if you are married, and want to stay married, it's a good idea not to kick your wife's car out of the garage in winter.    

I looked at several cars.  There was a 1967 Plymouth Satellite that appeared original, with a numbers matching 383 Commando V8.  It didn't run, but was complete and the owner was willing to drop it off at my house. The body had not rusted away, but the car had been sitting in a barn for a long time and the interior looked like a run down rodent Ramada.  The price was almost too good to be true, which made me hesitate on pulling the trigger.  It turned out it was too good of price, as the car was sold the day after I looked at it. 

I also looked at a 1968 Corvette Stingray.  It was a running, driving, original car in LeMans blue.  Unlike 85% of the Corvettes, it was also a four speed manual. The only problem was that it was at the top of my budget, and the car had a bent frame that had rusted through at the rear suspension mounts.  I was not ready, nor did I have the skill to do a frame off restoration.  

The next few weeks were a blur of cars, a couple of AMC Javelins, more C3 Corvettes, Triumphs and several MGBs.  Then I stumbled upon the 1965 Mustang.  

There was one picture in the add and the price was high, but was listed "or best offer".  It was local, 15 minutes from my house, being sold by the original owner.  It was a completely original, un-restored, un-modified, two door coupe in Wimbledon White with Ivy Gold interior. Three days later, I drove it home. 

And I've been driving it ever since.